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06. 02. 12. - 18:00

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06. 02. 12. - 18:00

Le Salzgries

By Nigel Stonham

I enjoyed perhaps my most pleasurable eating out experience of the last thirty years one Thursday evening at Le Salzgries. I’ve travelled fairly widely, have been to Paris on several occasions, journeying through France in my student years, but was truly impressed by this authentic slice of French cuisine in Austria.

For 39-year-old Denis König, charismatic owner and chef at Le Salzgries, the restaurant is the product of a childhood foodie experience. “I realized that I had passion for all things culinary the very first time I cooked. I was 13-years-old and I managed to cook pasta for 30 close friends – simple, but very tasty”, he explained.

Located in the heart of the first district in Vienna, Le Salzgries is the brainchild of the Paris born chef. Having grown up in Nice, in France, Denis decided to move to Austria to study construction engineering, harking back to his claims of Austrian ancestry as proven by his surname.

At the age of 24 he found his culinary feet however, taking the considerable leap from the industrial to the gastronomic and started working in restaurants just outside Vienna. Less than 10 years after he began working in the industry Denis found the perfect outlet for his foodie aspirations, jumping upon a soon to close cafe and transforming it into his very own French restaurant, “Le Salzgries” in 2005.

Personally, I did not instantly warm to the restaurant itself with its angular interior. This was not helped however by my being early and the restaurant consequently quiet. By 20.00 however the atmosphere had taken a new turn, and after three courses I was happily reminiscing about earlier times in Paris itself.

The restaurant, which got its name under duress from the earlier clients of the café, is divided into two floors seating 86 people and adheres to a style which Denis describes as “a mix of brassiere and bistro, trying to offer fresh food and a novel delivery, in an easy going environment”. The first-floor “bistro” area, warm and modest, is a concoction of Parisian artwork and un-matching chairs, a charming touch which is apparently a throwback to the cafe Salzgries days.  In the “wine cellar” the more discerning, formal diner can enjoy an intimate atmosphere surrounded by shelves of wine, before selecting their own tipple from an extensive cellar of French bottles.

It soon became clear that arriving early was a real positive giving me a chance to chat to the many approachable waiters. Having spoken to one who was himself from France, it struck me that to make a more authentic French experience in Vienna, knowledge of the restaurant's inspiration, not just on the part of the owner and chef, is of great importance.

Over the last six years Denis has heavily supported his motivated staff’s development. His organizing jobs and internships with some of the best French restaurants, giving staff the opportunity to gain valuable work-experience, reflects an attention to detail and authenticity which can be seen in so many other aspects of Denis’ work.

As with the staff I cannot fault the food or accompanying wine that I was served. Tuna pate, veal brains in jelly, steak tartare, mussels, ile flottant and an expresso, provided the ultimate French dining experience and was every inch the dependable and delicious bistro food I was expecting. The butter was icy, the food super and the dessert out of this world. This received the ultimate accolade as I found myself involuntarily going ooh and aah with every other mouthful.  The only problem I came across was with the side plate resting half on the placemat and half on the table, a very minor annoyance. Mirrors angled above the opposite table cleverly meant one could watch more of what was going on.

At 20.15 most tables were occupied, the waiters scurrying a little faster, and the noise level was much more as one would expect from an eclectic mix of international customers, enjoying their evening in a wonderful restaurant in the very heart of Vienna. According to Denis this clientele varies and is a little older than he had initially planned, with many people from abroad eating regularly on their Vienna visits.

From 12.00 until 14.30 and from 18.00 until 22.30 visitors can enjoy either a three course menu from a modest 23 Euros, a higher priced one, or simply go a la carte. Stray from the set menu and you can sample König’s personal favourite, the veil liver with green beans and parsley or “Le Salzgries’” infamous fish soup followed by beef tartar with goose liver. One for next time perhaps.

I was of course very fortunate indeed to have indulged in a selection of dishes chosen by Denis himself, and to enjoy conversation with the ambitious  man himself, who explained, despite being very proud of what he has created, the understandable complexities of being an owner and kitchen chef at the same time. “My next big dream is to open two more restaurants, preferably in the next five years“, explained Denis, when asked about his future plans.

If he continues to work with such grim determination as he demonstrated at the young age of 24 and for the last 15 years, he will no doubt continue to open and run restaurants as warm, winey and wonderful as Le Salzgries. For me, the experience was a pleasure, and I left with the feeling that I have a new friend in Vienna, a new restaurant to enjoy in the future, and certainly one to recommend to others.

Le Salzgries
Marc-Aurel-Straße 6
1010 Wien
Austria
Tel: +4315334030
Tuesday - Saturday, 12.00 - 14.30 and 18.00 - 22.30
Reservations can be made online or over the phone

http://www.le-salzgries.at/

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